Istanbul (March 2023) – part I

Istanbul for me used to be one of those crazy places that “regular” people don’t go to, like Antarctica or the Olympics, and I got just that reaction from several people when told of our destination. What really planted the seed was our visit to St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice which houses the Triumphal Quadriga, the 4 enormous gilded bronze horse statues that were “moved” (stolen) from the Hippodrome in Constantinople in 1200 during the Venetian crusade and conquest.  The Hippodrome is why I wanted to see Istanbul. Oh yeah, and the baklava!

The Hippodrome
The Hippodrome in Istanbul today is but a shadow of its former self. It’s now a broad paved walkway next to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, called Sultanahmet Square, with the German Fountain at one end and 3 columns at the other. Perhaps some don’t realize they’re standing 5 feet over what was once an enormous chariot racetrack, ampitheater stands for 50k people, and enormous columns and statues along the central spina, meant to be the equal of the mighty Circus Maximus in Rome. Sadly for modern tourists, a sketch of the city from the 1600s already shows that at that time, the remaining ampitheater stands were mostly in ruins.

The bases of the remaining monuments therefore are 5 feet below ground but are now dug out and fenced so the elaborate column bases can be admired. All of these monuments were appropriated from other places. The wording of the posted descriptions reminds us that this looting and stealing has long been whitewashed by terms like “moved to” and “now displayed at”.

Obelisk of Theodosius. “Once Constantinople became the new capital, there was a need for its emperors to emulate older Roman models. By erecting this Egyptian obelisk in the Hippodrome, Theodosius was following the example of Augustus who erected an obelisk in the Circus Maximus in 10 BC. Erecting an obelisk evoked the Circus Maximus and with it the power of Rome.” Managing these spoils of war was quite difficult; “it seems that this obelisk was left at the [Alexandria] docks for more than thirty years before it was erected in the Hippodrome during the reign of Theodosius I.” Then, “the first attempt to erect the obelisk was not successful, which may explain why the Latin inscription describes its erection as ‘difficult’. It is probably only about two-thirds its original height (as seen in the depiction of the obelisk at Karnak). It is unclear when this breakage happened, but it seems likely that it occurred in Constantinople during an attempt to erect it.”  Fascinating history read at https://www.thebyzantinelegacy.com/theodosius-obelisk.

Serpent Column. Originally from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi (Greece). “The excavation in 1855-1856 exposed an inscription that was scratched into the surface of the bronze. Written in the Phocian alphabet, it names thirty-one Greek cities that defeated the Persians at the battle of Plataea in 479 BC.”  The Column is supposedly made of melted down Persian helmets and shields. The trident top of 3 waving snake heads is unfortunately missing. https://www.thebyzantinelegacy.com/serpent-column

Istanbul is clean, modern, with incredible historical sites. It’s as travellable as other major European cities. The old maps of the city are the key. Observe all the monuments, towers, fountains, aqueducts. Istanbul is built on top and atwixt of these ruins.

DONT MISS:

• The Hagia Sophia and it’s stately, historic ambience.
• The Medusa columns in the far left end of the Basilica Cistern, we highly recommend the skip the line ticket, there were long lines even in March.
• The Hippodrome (also, the public bathrooms there accept Istanbulkart payment)
• The Roman Acqueduct, this and the city walls have little signage but ancient architecture fans will love them, but they are a bit far afield from Old City.
• The Ferry to Kadikoy, inexpensive, short, and scenic (be aware the ferries sometimes close due to fog, which then stresses the metro lines).
• Dining in Kadikoy (try Ciya restaurant).
• Galata Tower, 360deg views and a good museum, again must go at opening time.
• Istiklal street, for coffee, shopping, strolling.

Pro tips for mosques:

• Arrive early (1 hr before opening) or late (5-7pm) in the day to minimize waiting, but I imagine there will always be some wait. Enjoy a breakfast simit in line. And do not rush out – take time in the mosques to soak up the vibe. Sit at the edge of the carpets and hang out for a while. Almost every surface is decorated. (Always check out the ceilings.) Times change but these buildings endure. Marco Polo came here with his father and uncle. The history that these walls have seen! but the carpets seemed very clean to us.
• How to remove your shoes: stand with the carpet to your back, with your heels almost to carpets edge (but not on the carpet). Step out of one shoe and place your foot on the carpet. You can use your other toe to hold the first shoe, just don’t step it on the carpet. Now one foot is on the carpet and the other is still in your other shoe on the tile. Step out of other shoe (with your heel at the carpet your sock toe can help hold the 2nd shoe) and step it back to the carpet. Shoes remain on the tile. Socks never stepped on tile.
• You can bring a bag for your shoes and carry them around, but having been there, the shoes seemed safe enough. The Hagia Sophia had cubbies with flaps; at the Suleymaniye Mosque shoes were left on the doorstep.  You can also bring a 2nd pair of socks to put over your socks but the carpets seemed very clean to us.
• Ladies, any challis or rayon rectangular 70in scarf works fine to cover your head.

Yes, St Peter’s is larger, but only because the Hagia Sophia set the standard back in the year 537. It is still the 2nd largest dome next to the Pantheon. St Peter’s would not be built for another 1000 years.

Sample Full Day itinerary:

• The Hagia Sophia opens at 10, the line stretches to the right from the entrance on the left, suggest arriving at 9am. Ladies should bring a head scarf (light rayon rectangular scarf works well). Observe proper dress. There is no skip the line and no entrance fee.
• The Blue Mosque is directly opposite but was not open when we there, but photo opps abound.
• Hippodrome monuments.
• Column of Constantine (Metro: Cemberlitas).
• Grand Bazaar (Metro: Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı)
• Get advance tickets for Basilica Cistern tour in afternoon (maybe between 3 and 5). We did the “Basilica Cistern Skip-the-Line Guided Tour” thru TripAdvisor.
  • Note the meeting point at the “bus stop” is not on the street, but is inside the crowd control gates near the Hagia Sophia. The entrance to the crowd control gates was near the German Fountain. We were late to the tour because of this. Metro: Sultanahmet.

Half Day Jaunt 1:
Galata Tower – get there at or before opening. Metro: Karakoy, then to avoid a steep walk, walk a block west to the Funicular to Beyoglu, and walk back down the hill to the tower. Turkish Breakfast at Maddie’s Cucina nearby. Then shop at Migros across the street.

Half Day Jaunt 2:

• take ferry to Kadikoy.
• lunch at Ciya Sofrasi.
• shopping.
• return ferry to Eminonu (Old City) and visit the Egyptian (Spice) Market & surrounding sellers
• Or, metro from Kadikoy to Uskudar to view Kiz Kulesi (Maiden’s Tower) at sunset, then ferry back from Uskudar.

Half Day Jaunt 3:
Walk to the Roman Aqueduct and the Suleymaniye Mosque. You’ll be sure to hear the call to prayer during your walk. The Acqueduct is surrounded by a park from which to enjoy the views. Convenient metro: Veznecilir. Just beware of Google Maps, nowadays it tries to provide shortcuts and the shortcut behind the Mosque did not feel very safe!

On our list for next time:

• Doner at Karadeniz Döner Asım Usta, near Dolmabahçe Palace (YouTube famous)
• Camlica Tower (Asia side) – although the views might not be better than from Galata Tower which is much closer to the Old City
• Baghdad Road and Caddebostan Coast walk (Asia side, past Kadikoy)
• The famous Bayramoğlu Döner in Beykoz (Asia side but North)
• Petra Roasting Co & Eataly (east of Taksim). For when you tire of Turkish food.
• old Byzantine Walls of the Old City

Pro tips for Istanbul:

• Istanbul is an extremely popular destination in Asia and is quite crowded. March was a great time to go, not too warm and not too crowded. Altho the metro could be very crowded at times (shoulder to shoulder). We visited during Ramadan and did not experience any difficulties although we were recommended to eat inside restaurants and avoid eating on the street.
• If someone walks up to you on the street and starts talking to you, they are trying to rip you off, do not engage.
• A 50 lira bill, and only a 50 lira bill, is required to purchase a metro ticket. Once the ticket itself is purchased, you can add value to it as a second transaction.
• Prices in the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar are truly outrageous. Spend your money instead in the shops outside the bazaars.  Even then, many are not willing to bargain. But at 2023 exchange rates, the turkish lira is at historic lows (20:1) so it’s OK.
• Restaurant/cafe prices in the Old City were similarly outrageous. Simit for breakfast then use Kadikoy as your cafeteria!
• Karakoy (West side) is not Kadikoy (Asia side)
• Carry some 1 Lira coins for bathrooms (typically 3 L if they don’t accept metro cards)

WC:
Note, these 2 locations cost 1 Lira coin but also accept Istanbulkart!! There is always an attendant at the WC to make change.

• Portable toilets on NW side of Sultanahmet square (Hippodrome) between the German Fountain and the Obelisk of Theodosius;
• Grand Bazaar (several WC inside, see posted maps. If you enter thru the “main” entrance G7, near the Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı stop, there are several bathrooms nearby)

These WC may be coin only:

• Down the escalator in the east courtyard outside the Spice Market: WC Toilet
  https://maps.app.goo.gl/wGkiSLgZnCuWZ9s99 (3 Lira)
• Orient Express Train Station, inside the station N of the tracks that run
  east-west. Directly across from Sirkeci metro. (3 Lira)

Most coffee shops and restaurants have a WC downstairs, but you are expected to purchase something.