Istanbul (March 2023) – part II – Dining

Dining. We read many, many reviews detailing poor food and various ripoffs at dining establishments in Old City/Beyoglu/Istiklal/Karakoy. Yet somehow all restaurants are rated 4.8 in Google. And many with significant numbers of one star reviews under those 4.8 average ratings. It started to sound like Venice – bad food, bad service, high prices. Perhaps not a surprise for such a touristic town. I was not looking forward to this. We were able to find a few recommendations from YouTubers like Mark Wiens, Bery Istanbul, etc. But the good news is, far and away the place to eat is actually on the East side (Kadikoy) – away from the Old City and away from the tourist hotels. And it’s only a wonderful short ferry ride away!

But as always, check menu prices first to avoid surprises. Don’t accept food you didn’t order. Lokantasi (cafeteria) food isn’t amazing but you pay up front, therefore there are no hour long waits and no surprise bills at the end. Try to go early or at off times if you dont have a reservation. (We couldn’t find any restaurants with online reservations.)

Kadikoy These were the places we went on our Taste of 2 Continents Food Tour. We cannot recommend this tour, and the restaurants, highly enough. Our guide had a PhD in Byzantine history! All of the restaurants were delicious and they were all in Kadikoy.

  • Kebapci Iskender – Kabobs
  • Ciya Sofrasi – wide variety of Turkish food, all delicious.
  • Kimyon Kadikoy – Beyran, Lamb soup, was delicious and we went back the next day for lunch to have more soup and added a Doner which was also excellent.
  • Ozcan Famous Pickle – Pickles, pickle juice, and spices.
  • Mado – ice cream and tea
No calories on a food tour

Beyoglu

The mighty Zubeyir
Meze, always. Herbed yogurt and fried onion
Antakya. Always gets the spicy yogurt
Beyoglu Halk Doner. The greens in the yogurt was some kind of enormous thick succulent plant, did not enjoy
Turkish breakfast at Maddie’s

Beşiktaş

Beykoz

  • The famous Bayramoğlu Döner in Beykoz (Asia side but North, past Mehmet Bridge) (didn’t try)

Old City

Balkan Lokantasi

Also, you should have baklava and tea or coffee every day. We like Hafiz Mustafa for baklava/turkish delight and EspressoLab for coffee. I don’t know what this baklava is specifically called but it was my favorite:

Turkish baklava tends to favor pistachio
Hafiz Mustafa

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