(Note: in the interest of time, I’m posting this with missing pictures which I will update shortly.)
For Mr A, this trip was the nexus of several pent up needs, namely a) COVID REVENGE, b) Yen exchange rate arbitrage (low-ish at 0.64USD per 100Yen), c) a long awaited return to Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea, and d) the discovery of a points deal for lie-flat business class seats from LAX-NRT on Japan Airlines. (A whole blog post could be written about that redemption.) And last but not least, e) Capybaras.
For me though, Japan is always personal. While I cherish my Japanese ancestry, I don’t necessarily feel at home in Japan as a 4th generation Japanese American. While it’s a relief to blend in with everyone’s else’s black hair, I don’t speak the language, my manner is too brash, and thus I will instantly be recognized and rejected as being not a “real” Japanese Nihonjin. But regardless of this “glass wall” I still take an inordinate pride in this country’s quietly tidy and organized ways, and the obsession with beauty and beauty’s intransience. I looked forward to hanging out in temples and shrines, taking photos to feed my art (I took about 3700 photos in 10 days), and shopping for temple souvenirs, ceramics, Japanese writing instruments, and Japanese fashion (link).
Our original plan was for October but while Mr A was searching for a points deal for flights, Google revealed that the weather would be unseasonably warm, so we switched to November. Then after we booked the tickets, we realized this put us right in leaf peeping season, as the crowd meter for major Kyoto sights was solid red most of the day. But on the plus side, the pictures should be even more amazing, right??
Thursday-Friday 241107
LAX – SEA – NRT
As we lean into the point and miles life, we have fallen in love with lounges, but our timing couldn’t be worse. Lounges are fuller than ever with credit card holders and the aforementioned revenge travellers. But I judge lounges on 2 things: their coffee, their bathroom amenities, and their food. And their vibe. For it was in the Detroit Delta Sky Club (A43) that I discovered my favorite bath gel, Grown Alchemist. That lounge is firing on all cylinders – huge, luxurious, great food, great bathrooms. We’ve been there many many times as we back and forth’d to DD’s alma mater. Also top notch is the AAA Admirals Club in Chicago which is right next to a Rick Bayless Frontera Grill (get the guacamole and the Ahogado to go).
In our First Class seats to SEA we enjoyed our orange juice and warmed nuts as we pretended not to notice the other passengers boarding. Status is oh so sweet.
“I’m platinum medallion on Delta” says 1C. Shows his phone screen to 1B across the aisle. The mating call of the million miler. Rookie move tho – far better to chat her up at security, so he could get her into the lounge as his guest! Put your money where your mouth is, fella!
It’s the day after the election. I’m reading the Wall Street Journal but avoiding the opinion section. WSJ’s only God is money, I can get behind that. Your family and your resources – nothing else matters in a world we cannot control.
The Centurion lounge in SEA was a 30 minute wait for a medium sized lounge with decent enough food, a great view of the runway, and an impeccable coffee bar that makes Macchiatos the Italian way – just a dollop of foam on top of the double shot, in a CERAMIC cup, mind you, not a savage, chemical-tasting, paper cup. Seattle is so civilized. Why do we not live here?
I got in a quick sketch of the runway before we left. More on that sketchbook later.
(picture of runway)
On the Japan Airlines flight I slipped off my shoes as I inspected the amenity kit which even included an iPhone charging cable. The pad on the bed was a bit thin but lying down on a plane was a novelty, especially with a seatbelt on. Comfortable, but sleep was elusive.
(picture)
Saturday 241109
Planned: Narita Express to Tokyo Station, taxi to The Prince Gallery Tokyo Kioicho. Ginza shopping, Itoya, Fendi, Hibiya Illumination, Trader Vic’s, Dinner/drinks at hotel bar
Actual:
Steps:
Tokyo, and Ginza, are beautiful especially at night. Only later did we realize just how huge the Ginza area is – blocks and blocks of luxury stores. (map) I was feeling underdressed in this Beverly Hills-like area with idling Ferrarri’s waiting at the curb. But we found salvation at Itoya, the Ikea of writing instruments, with it’s 11 floors of artistic goodness. I lol’d to realize I was already familiar with all these ink pen brands from my years of buying pens from JetPens.com. I did pick up some cool 2mm HB pencil leads (link) to play with plus a journal, plus some clever tote bags (link). Little did I know these items would not be with me very long!
(pictures)
We tried to navigate Uniqlo but found it frustrating to use the slooow escalators to reach level 7 in favor of the packed elevators. Most urban stores in Tokyo are very narrow but have many floors, not a setup that you can easily speedrun. (Come to think of it, Kyoto city is much the same way, not built for speed. You can hit up 3 locations but it will take ALL DAY.) As we exited Uniqlo I finally spotted the $50 down jacket in the outside window. Too late to go back for a try on.
I was hoping for some exchange rate arbitrage on my next purse but the Fendi store’s prices were the same as US prices. (sad trombone). But unlike in the US they were more than happy to let an old lady with dubious wealth try on the By The Way Selleria purse and fondle it. But we were crashing hard now and Mr A was yearning for a drink at Trader Vic’s. First the subway ride back to our neighborhood and then after a few wrong turns and a helpful security guard we found the bar on the 4th floor of the New Otani’s Garden Wing, up a (very) nondescript elevator. It was closing soon and there was only one other party (American) in the dark, woodpaneled room. The cognitive dissonance of being in an American style 50’s tiki bar in the middle of Tokyo, jet lagged, made me dizzy. Or was it the drinks? Our waitress was extremely cute and chatty and made a big impression on my DH. We stumbled across the street to our room and collapsed.
Sunday 241110
Planned: 930am tickets at teamLab Borderless, Oedo antique market, 130pm samurai show Shinjuku (lunch), 720pm tickets Shibuya Sky
Actual: teamLab Borderless, Oedo antique market, Godzilla Square in Ginza, Godzilla in Shinjuku, Samurai show Shinjuku, 3d cat billboard, Piss Alley, Uniqlo, Itoya Shinjuku, Ichiran Ramen, Shibuya Sky, Shibuya crossing, Hachiko statue
Steps:
First let me say that we thoroughly enjoyed the Prince Gallery Kioichi hotel. Heavily padded carpets, intense signature fragrance in the halls (they must pay someone to go around spraying the halls twice a day), keyed door panels everywhere. We had to badge in 3 times to get from the lobby (staffed 24/7) to our room on a different floor. It felt very exclusive and very secure. The lobby bar with it’s three-story glass windows is a magnificent place to have a drink, and their Napoli style pizzas are a great midnight snack for the jetlagged. In the breakfast room, the tables are all window-side on the 40th floor, for spectacular views. They make a mean macchiato as well. Just ask for your eggs well done if you don’t like them raw. And enjoy gawking at the CEOs and international rock stars. I also still miss our bathroom with it’s giant soaking tub, overhead waterfall shower, and glass walls that can be opaque or clear depending on whether or not you want the city to view you during your shower. I also miss the toilet room that automatically turned on the light, raised the lid, and flushed for you. On top of the standard Toto bidet options, including heated seat. So very, very civilized. Sigh.
Regardless of which hotel you pick, make sure you are steps away from a metro stop as this will be your primary mode of transportation. It takes 30-45 min minimum to get anywhere on the metro even if your hotel is on top of the station. Also don’t spend all your time underground, make sure you’re enjoying the city streets as well.
teamLab Borderless was a breathtaking combination of moving projections, light installations, and music in a set of 20? reooms with multiple entryways. The most impressive art installation we’ve ever seen. The recent Van Gogh “immersive” exhibition is obviously inspired by this, but Borderless is MUCH more extensive. This was a great way to start our trip to Japan and took about 2 hours. Social media fans will take longer. I read that the other teamlab site in Tokyo is not that different so just pick one. That said, it’s now on my bucket list to see all the teamLab installations – they are world wide now. Just a warning, everything we went to in Japan was sold out by the day of the event including teamLab and Shibuya Sky.
The Oedo antique market did not disappoint and under a drizzly sky I browsed thru used/antique Japanese fabrics, ceramics, jewelry, clothing (used utility jackets in all colors, and kimono). Could have stayed there all day. Runs infrequently so I’m glad we caught this. I spent some time searching up Tokyo event calendars which unearthed gems like this. Plus Godzilla Square is just around the corner and inbetween you can stop at 7-11 for your Tuna/Wasabi or Tuna/Mayonnaise roll.
(picture) 1109_16 How to unroll a 711 sushi roll youtube.
On the flight to Tokyo I ran across the Samurai Restaurant Time which touts itself as a descendant of the crazy Robot Restaurant (the Mardi Gras of Kabukicho, except with robots and samurai, featured in Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations (link)) so we reconfigured this day to include this. I was very excited to pilgrimage to an Anthony Bourdain location. But I’m not including the link to Samurai Restaurant Time because for us it turned out to be a total, utter waste of time. After we were seated, I saw that the drinks menu stated “please do not leave during the performance” and “no refunds at all for any reason”. Hmm. We finished the extremely not worth it “Bento” and left the uncrowded “theater” after the first 10 minute “act.”
Supposedly, Itoya Shinjuku was nearby so we spent way more time than I expected finding firstly the department store, then the 5th floor, then the very few tables of sketchbooks and totes. No pens!!!! What????? But to console us there was an Ichiran on the other side of the subway station. I don’t know if its because Tokyo streets are not a grid but getting from A to B takes foreeeeever even with Google Maps. Much of Japan is laid out in neighborhoods of crooked streets and is not built for speed. Trying to get long distances (like a mile or more), quickly, is difficult unless you happen to be on a bullet train. And when the underground subway station is under repair, finding the other side of the station can be an adventure in itself.
But there are many micro-level efficiencies in Japan and Ichiren is a prime example. You receive a waitlist ticket, scan the QR, and watch your place in line count down to 1. Pro tip, when it says “you are up next” that is the time to approach the podium again. This IS the “your table is ready” message. “Up next” sounds like “on deck” but it is really “at bat”. You are directed to a short line where they pull diners to open seats, but be sure to place your order at the ticket machine first. Thank goodness Mr A had watched the Youtubes. Clutching our series of tickets (one for ramen, one for extra noodles, one for a side of pork and green onions (GET THIS)) we sat and placed our bags in the baskets. Love that we don’t have to put our bags on the floor in cleanliness-obsessed Japan. You place your tickets at the bamboo screen and the torso of a waiter raises the screen to peruse your tickets and quickly brings your food, keeping the shade lowered while not directly interacting with you. No talking or eye contact is necessary, all interactions have been gamed out and small wooden plaques are used to communicate your other needs (it’s too noisy / ready for more noodles) Our sake tour guide said this restaurant is a relief from “the eyes of the others are upon you” which I take to mean the silent judging that goes on in Japanese society that I am familiar with from my own family lol. Personally I like that Japanese people will not get in your face about your choices, but if you do decide to drive off a cliff they will not disturb your peace of mind by trying to stop you.
I have to assume that without the tourists and their loud talking and their selfies, Ichiran would be a much quieter restaurant. But we are in Shibuya, tourist mecca. We thoroughly enjoyed the ramen (did I mention the pork and green onions?) and I’m only sorry we didn’t get a 2nd try of Ichiran during the trip. This was one of Mr A’s must do’s.
By total accident, we ran across the Giant 3D Cat (link) billboard just down from Sports Depo and across the subway tracks from Uniqlo Shinjuku West.
We had enough time to rest at the hotel before the Shibuya Sky tickets at 7:30pm. They are serious about not taking anything on the roof so BRING CHANGE for the (huge) lockers, you Americans cannot bluff your way past the guards, or try to say you have no money. This location is not a photographer’s dream; the best pictures I got were thru a plate glass window behind the Christmas displays, on a lower level, and there are no good picture-taking spots on the outside deck of the Shibuya crossing itself which is almost directly below. The views of the far city ARE good but PRO TIP book your sunset viewing times (5pm) AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE! And don’t miss the huge mall on the lower floors for your shopping and dining convenience.
Easy enough to then walk out to Shibuya crossing itself and video yourself making the crossing with all the other tourists doing exactly the same thing.
Hachi dog statue just nearby.
Also stopped at Don Quixote, but thought it was mostly flea market junk. Worth one stop tho.
To be continued…!
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