After being squeezed and birthed out of the very crowded Khan el-Khalili market, we crossed the street via the underground tunnel.



On the other side, our guide Mr A helped Mr J find his camel bone prayer beads and I got my stone beads down from 400 EGP to 250 by just smiling sheepishly at the guy. It seemed to work. On our way to the waiting spot we passed by the dirtiest 2 year old I have ever seen, and his mother. More than several days worth of caked and smeared dirt on that practically naked kid. Just beyond were 2 mother dogs and their 4 puppies, one of which was curled up on a discarded plastic bag like a throne. After our lunch discussion regarding the pace of inflation and the resulting poverty, it was a lot to take.

We reached the curb of Nafal Al Azhar and Mr A is explaining the mosque and the associated university. The sweet potato guy notices my stare and shows me the inside of his pitch black portable oven in which 6 sweet potatoes were baking. I take a photo.

He sits back down on the curb but I realize he is listening to our guide. He seems to disagree with something our guide says and interjects a comment. He and Mr A have a discussion that eventually concludes in agreement. Everyone has a right to their opinion in Egypt. Much like the local man who became a celebrity by recalling the correct color of the red building that Dr El Anany restored – as his father had worked in the building when he was a kid.

Our ride arrives and he can only pause at the curb for a second. I give the sweet potato guy 50 EGP – “for photo,” I say.