I ended up making 2 posts for part 19 Bottura/Francescana on Saturday, check em both out. This post here happens to cover Sunday and Monday.
Sunday Oct 4
Rehydrating and blogging at the beautiful Bologna train station as I wait for the 1:30 Frecciarosso to Firenze.
Love bullet trains. Didn’t realize the trip was gonna be mostly underground, tho. The brief hits of sunlight allowed the gps to lock in once –
Last few days are in Florence, same hotel as last time, already have a ticket to see the Cosmati tile floors at the Baptistry, and what I hope will be a great “Last Supper” in Italy. So much to sketch, so little time.
Re entry to Firenze on a Sunday afternoon after the peace and quiet of Bologna and Modena was startling. As I hoofed it to the hotel I thought, did a concert just get out??
Today I just wanted an easy dinner so back to Bistrot 74 at 4pm, same order. Sometimes you just want to eat at Dennys. Not sure that is actually a Super Tuscan either.
Short wander thru town. Bittersweet to know it’s coming to an end. Great place to end up for souvenir shopping tho.
Monday Oct 5
I’m actually sitting here in Florence missing Bologna and Bar Vittorio Emanuele. There is no similar live and let live bar in Florence that I’ve found that I can sit and paint at forever, at the major sights, in this busy town. I’m trying to come up with 2 US cities that mirror the difference between Florence (busy, fashionable) and Bologna (laid back/student/foodie). LA and Chicago? LA and San Fran? Except that Bologna is also blissfully uncrowded. I think it’s my new favorite city in Italy.
Having said that, for most tourists Florence is the best of all worlds in Italy, you’ve got the river, the art, the walkability; 2 major Piazzas and the Ponte Vecchio all in a row. It’s just a 15 min walk to anywhere.
Got a ringside seat this morning at Caffè Scudieri Firenze, fronting the Piazza Di San Giovanni, facing the Baptistry, for breakfast. Cappuccino and Toast with butter y jam, my favorite breakfast.
All so I can turn to the right for a perfect view of the Duomo –
I have to say the Baptistry is a bit disappointing above the floor level. They say the mosaics are covered, they neglect to mention that means the entire ceiling is covered. But…the floors!!! About half of which are cordoned off (cries in Italian…again). (After studying my fotos I’m gonna have to make a separate post just for these floors.)
From the fact that there’s no sturdy handle behind these metal forms, these must have been used to essentially measure/validate the tile shape, not cut it out of the stone. (Santa Reparata exhibit)
Sketched a few statuary in the Baptistry and the Cathedral.
Bathroom break at Mercato Centrale were I almost broke the entry doors (but the person in front of me stalled in the door and almost made me me pay entry again which I wasn’t going to do). Food sub-ordinary but there was a very very popular Florentine steak on paper plates place upstairs. Took a wander around Santo Spiritu then Piazza della Signoria seeking some sketching. Decided to tackle Difficulty Level 10, Abduction of a Sabine Woman by Giambologna (1583). Just stood by the trashcan next to the tourists and went at it. Carved from a single block of marble. How the heck did they move it later?? “Firenze Marble Movers. No job too small. 500 years of experience, clientele Michaelangelo”
Changed my dinner res at the last minute as I just wasn’t feeling the vibe near the first place. It was a bit of a walk but shockingly, La Carbonata Ristorante via Cavour was as good as the 4.9* reviews said. Friendly service, excellent Tagliata steak and roast potatoes. And the English customers trying to SoundHound the restaurant’s Spotify playlist.
Finally tried a Cannoli, correctly made, but should’ve stuck with the tiramisu.
P.S. after some emails back and forth with Customs in Italy, my 2 packages of dirty laundry are on the move again. Apparently the key phrase is “Used personal effects not for resale”
