Italy 2026 part 22 – Baptistry San Giovanni floors (Monday)

I can’t find a reference that the Cosmati family specifically worked on these floors but they are the same age and would have been similar quality regardless. I spent over an hour admiring these floors. The designs, the color choice, the exacting stonework, the pieced borders, are stunning. Quite worn in places, obviously repaired in places, some of the most complex designs cannot be trod upon nor even barely seen and probably for a reason to avoid further damage.

Entryway looking to the right. The entire floor is tiled. In tiny, tiny pieces. The sunburst uses different size triangles at each ring around the center.
Central location of the zodiac ring. Also note the scrim blocking view of the ceiling, above the scaffolding.

Zodiac closeup. Apparently this section was moved. How??? Piece by piece is impossible, as a single block, impossible…

This serpentine eye is my favorite design

I definitely noticed the floor before I noticed the statue of John the Baptist which itself is exquisite
Left side past the entryway

Amazingly complex field of squares, but a no-go zone. There’s a flying horse in one of the squares

800 year old floor
I see you, little 3d loop that wants to be a quincunx when it grows up.

Quincunx means “5 12ths”. So a single loop is a “uncia” (one twelfth?)??? Now I really don’t know what I’m saying.

Above is a classic Cosmati pavement, note the high contrast, the insane intricacy, and the rich oranges and reds. This is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore in Civita Castellana, which is not Civita di Bagnoregio, sadly nowhere near where I was going. Something for next time.

One more bonus, thru the floor grates you can see the old floor, which itself was also tiled:

N.B. for you astronomy nerds – “On June 21—the summer solstice—a single, concentrated ray of sunlight would stream directly through the suspended bronze gnomon ring (an astronomical pinhole) at solar noon. The ray of light would pierce the darkness of the Florence Baptistery and perfectly illuminate the Cancer constellation on the magnificent intarsio (inlaid marble) zodiac wheel embedded in the floor. This system no longer functions (as the ring is gone and the zodiac was moved)…(But) An almost identical, fully functional “twin” solstice sundial from 1207 can still be witnessed nearby at the Basilica of San Miniato al Monte.” – Google

Someone needs to put together an ancient astronomy tour of Europe.

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