Some things are universal, like the desire of old men to shred:
Quick walk thru town before the journey to the country. I redeemed myself from the poor sketch of the Duomo from yesterday.
And then across the square – a great view looking back – for the price of a cappuccino. Always turn around!
Time control is important today. The Acetaia visit at Maria Luigia is at 4, I want to leave my hotel at 3. Had a quick piece of apple cake when I stopped to draw the violin player.
I’m a bit nervous for dinner. The taxi took me 15min into the country. He turned at the discrete sign saying Hotel Maria Luigia. The drive was lined with shady overhanging trees and there was an estate gate at the end. I couldn’t find the front desk, it’s truly like a country home with multiple buildings. No signs, no rubber doormats, no logos. Beautiful plantings. All very understated but well kept. Beverly Hills could never be this restrained. All of the staff here look like supermodels and speak 5 languages. My feeling of being a poser intensifies. Finally I’m able to explain myself to someone: the Acetaia tour, and dinner.
I went to the bar while waiting for the 4pm tour and explained I needed to eat a little something. They gifted me a huge spread of parmesan with basalmic, crackers, and nuts with my 20e drink. Wow !! The drink is Caribe 56: dark rum, apricot, lime. I need to make this at home. Everything is delicious. The service is warm and impeccable.
The Acetaia tour was brief, they took over ownership of the barrels in 2010? And they have a huge range of products on sale. Interestingly they also have a line of premixed drinks (using basalmic vinegar) which are also delicious and unfortunately not available in the US! But I’m glad I waited to get basalmic vinegar from my hero.
And now the 2 hour wait for dinner. I met Lara, the power behind the throne of the Bottura empire. I had time to furiously Google her name cuz id forgotten it. She was very nice. Massimo himself spent almost 30min with the extremely loud group of journalists who had taken over the bar patio next to me. I can’t imagine sitting next to these guys at the communal dinner. Please no.
Whoever put a huge glass window on the old barn was a genius. Anticipation building.
We all had assigned seats and I wondered how much curation of the table assignments went on, seeing as everyone is online and searchable these days. But it was a wonderful group of people to dine with, a retired couple, two young doctors from Canada, and a middle aged couple from South Africa who knew Singapore well! One of my haunts from a previous life.
I thought the 170e wine pairing was exhorbitant until I saw all the wines by the glass are 30e plus. But the sommeliers are so suave – he says, let me curate you a few glasses, maybe 3 glasses, for each of the thirds of the menu. A white for the start, and white or red for the middle, a red for the end. I said as long as you include the Lambrusco. No no!, not the Lambrusco, he sneered, let me pick you something wonderful. I didn’t realize Lambrusco was the Bud Lite of Italian wine, I thought Sangiovese wore that crown. I was looking forward to choosing between these:
He poured me a sparkling white, it was French!, it was extra dry brut (forgot to take a pic), it wasn’t on the menu, it tasted just like the Pinot Nero Spumante from Ristorante Ciacco. Delicious. I said “I can’t believe you’re recommending me a French wine” but he said the French understand blending is key and the Italians don’t understand that.
I only managed one more glass, but a beautiful Franciacorte, my very favorite Italian methode champenoise, very dry. He pronounced it French Acorte and I was eager to be educated about something new then I saw it was Franciacorte. Love it anyways. Also, my waiter advised, “never take Prosecco.” Yes chef.
Two glasses – and of white – with dinner! Alora! What is this world coming to!
Oh yeah, the food. See next post. I think this post has already broken blogspot. I can’t fix it til I get home.
