Breakfast at Bar San Michele under the compassionate eye of the Madonna. Lescaut wasn’t open, too bad, the walls and doorways near there are extremely sketchable. Instead I’m in the direct sun. I love the personalized napkins and sugar packets at the cafes, I’ve started collecting them like a damn tourist.
The last of the big three Lucca cathedrals is San Frediano, from whence the Volto Santo departed last night.
Both San Martino and San Frediano have incredible art inside, but I’m excited to find some Cosmati pavement behind San Frediano’s altar. I first discovered the work of the 12th century Cosmati family at Westminster Abbey which has the dramatic stone floors at the altar over which all British kings are crowned.
But this is actually Renaissance-era Italian stonework. In the 12th century, the Cosmati family created some of the most incredible intricate and colorful marble mosaic stone floors in the cathedrals of Italy. Check out the detailed patterns especially the classic open shepherds hook design. Here’s what was visible from behind the ropes at San Frediano:
I’m so glad to be reminded of my obsession, I’ll be looking for this on my trip. The Baptistry in Florence has some Cosmati flooring but I can’t get in til later in my trip. Just another Italian history nerd! Also a patchwork quilter!
Lunch – humongous pesto and prosciutto “Gastone” panino at Da Gastone. This was the place on the plaza with the 25-deep line the night of the Volto Santo
What was supposed to be a leisurely walk to the train became a mad rush when I realized I forgot the clothes in the closet and had to go back to the hotel … Took a taxi to the station. No cash for tips, sorry my guy.
Fancy serviced apartment for the next few nights in Florence before I transit to Orvieto but no laundry service and the local laundrette has bad reviews. How to live til Civita on the 18th? Wash every damn thing I can in the sink. That’s why this blog is behind!!
Other current dilemmas.
1. Am I going to buy a duffel to lighten my load heading into Civita (and leave some luggage behind). Then toss the duffel I guess? Or should I just brute force it for an hour dragging 30 lb up the Civita hill??
2. Change train from Orvieta so I can ride with my flatmate? Trenitalia app says no 😦
Dining as a party of one in Italy has left some scars but I found a place (recommended by Google) that would take a res for 1. I don’t dare not make a res in this busy town. When I arrive to Bistro 74 I realize it’s a very very touristy restaurant with 100pct fake reviews but now I just want to eat. Surprisingly it’s decent – pollo Milanese, fries, peas, and a wonderful Super Tuscan. The waiter explains that even cheap wine in Italy is good – unlike France. My untrained palate agrees. Any excuse to bash the French!
Grabbed a splendid tiramasu as I exited the restaurant area then spent a beautiful hour on the Piazzo del Duomo sketching and taking in the vibe. A guitar player, a light breeze, a beautiful Indigo blue sky, the changing of day into night. And there is no other more beautiful facade than the facade of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiori, attached to the Brunelleschi dome.
And then…an hour of laundry
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