Up early due to jet lag. I remembered the sign that the 3rd floor balcony was open 24/7 and wondered what sunrise looked like from there. Was a little late but the top of Cupola del Brunelleschi was beautiful in the golden tendrils of dawn. Sunrise and sunset are always magical times.
Lovely early morning inclusive breakfast at La Menagere. Coffee, OJ, yogurt, croissant, AND avocado bagel with salmon. For free! Outstanding croissant. Sketched the ancient doorway across the way. No rush, it was only 830am.
Today’s action item, obtain 400e in cash to pay for the Civita apartment one week from now. Google recommended “the best exchange counter in Florence” right next to the Piazza della Signoria. I wish I could have taken a picture of the interior of this tiny counter, because in true Roman fashion, the tiny 1 meter-square-footprint cubicle behind the plexiglass had one corner cut off by an ancient Roman wall. That tall guy was basically wedged into a triangle. But I was satisfied with the 1.25 exchange rate (80e for 100usd), same as withdrawing euros from an ATM, and no fees. Mission accomplished.
The Piazza della Signoria is the beating heart of Firenze, anchoring the Uffizi museum, Palazzo Vecchio and its two Davids, the Loggia del Lanzi, the iconic Torre di Arnolfo tower, and a bunch of assorted statuary near the fountain. No matter how crowded it gets, this is still my favorite place in Florence. And last but not least, Rivoire de Firenze, the world’s best cafe on Italy’s most famous Piazza, home of the Affogato Rivoire, espresso poured over barely sweetened whipped cream with slivered almonds on top. Glorious. I will never forget my first Affogato here 15 years ago. No time/stomach for that today sadly – but I’ll be back.
Today at 10 the Piazza was busy. By 2 it would be a mad crush. So I proceeded to inconvenience numerous tourists by hogging the rail at the Fountain of Neptune to sketch and then paint “Equestrian Monument of Cosimo I”. I miniaturized my painting setup for just such an occasion – when all you have is a railing. I also stuck my foot thru the backpack strap at my feet, to thwart thieves.
Smoked my credit card at Casa della Stilografica SRL, the fountain pen store. Now I own a LAMY pen with 1.1 nib!! Squee! And picked up the most beautiful aubergine and blue waterproof inks!
Come with me to a fairytale secret garden in the middle of Florence where the price of admission is only 5e worth of drinks.
Grabbed a sandwich from the famous All’antico Vinaio at the train station. I ordered the Dante which I didn’t think twice about, until I watched them slather some black stuff all over the sandwich! Which level of hell exactly is this sandwich from?? I don’t know but it’s absolutely delicious – salty, creamy, crunchy, and spicy/herbaceous from the arugula. And only 9e. America, what is wrong with you that you cannot value and demand food like this.
First night in Lucca. The huge broad walls are a stout defense around this city, but you should see the extremely massive and impressive portcullis and ancient metal doors. It must have been a lawless time for a long time in Italy, prior to the Roman Empire, where might made right, and you could trust only your local community, and were totally dependent on your bricklayers, woodworkers, and metalsmiths to build the things that protect you. Conversely, when nothing bad ever happens to you, I think you get a false sense of control over your life. You might even congratulate yourself that it is your own skills and abilities that kept you safe all this time – rather than pure chance.
After debarking the train I joined the other old ladies with heavy luggage waiting for the elevator. There was barely room for 2 more but somehow the 3rd lady jammed herself into the elevator with her huge luggage and backpack. We 5 stand there all literally pressed together. Remember European elevators are tiny. I find people with backpacks on are simply unable to tell (or care) when their backpack is hitting something or someone else. I don’t understand this, it shifts your backpack when you hit something. I look up at the guy to my left. In the US we would have exchanged snarky looks but Europeans don’t go for that faux American friendliness. I receive no validation.
Discovering Franciacorte sparkling wine tonight, aged in the bottle like Champagne, unlike Prosecco which is aged in vats. Dryer than Prosecco which is a plus for me. It’s the sake’ of Italian sparkling wine! Can’t wait for my Lambrusco tour in Bologna. May I say that Manchego, Beef Tartare, and Franciacorte are the perfect combination. Ahh, the Mediterranean diet. Back at the hotel I ask for Franciacorte and they open a new bottle for me (not like the stale pour I got at the restaurant). The tuxedo bar cat and I enjoy it.
Can’t recommend Piazza Anfiteatro, pure tourist zone, filled with bugs, I only stayed for the sunset.
And oh yeah – it’s Gracie Mille, not Mille Gracie
WearyTravelers.net 