Gorgeous quiet morning in Lucca, ham omelette breakfast at Cafe Manon Lescaut in the courtyard near Puccini’s birthplace. This place deserves a repeat. Just get there before 9am.
The ball of my right foot – bruised. Heavy shoulder bags have never worked for me. That heavy backpack did a number on me. Need a down day today. Nothing on the schedule today except a dinner res at 7pm and some unfinished sketches to paint. The bike ride on the city walls will have to wait. Beautiful deep shade on the hotel’s patio on the square. But with a screen of dense foliage in case you’re with Pedro Pascal.
OK I said a down day but then decided to take a walk which turned into climbing two towers, Torre Guinigi (the one with the trees on top) and Campanile di San Marino. Before that I got some gelato for lunch from I Gelati di Piero, which I promptly dropped on its head in the plaza, said “f*ck* loudly, got a sympathetic murmur from a nearby Italian (shocking right?) like I’d biffed a World Cup goal, I wiped off the layer that hit the ground, and kept eating. Cuz it was half and half Coffee and Girone dei Golosi (extra dark chocolate, orange jam, candied orange rind, and chocolate chips). Chocolate and orange is my jam now after that spectacular espresso drink in Edmonds WA. And look at the spectacular seating opposite the shop.
This shop even has a special flavor in honor of the Volto Santo tomorrow. How Italian is that.
The towers are surely for defensive purposes but are masterpieces of construction as well. Torri Guigni has a micro forest at the top:
And at Campanile San Marino – more great views but at this point I’m soaked with sweat
I’m finding there is always a special prayer altar in Catholic churches and it is usually labelled (mind you I know nothing about Catholicism). I sat there for a bit and thought about the folks I knew that needed help. One is in the hospital. I beseeched the universe to help them. Oddly enough, I left feeling heard.
The Madonna and Child remind us that our highest calling is to care for one another.
Stopped by Chiesa di San Michele to sketch before dinner. The old bank building opposite the cathedral was picturesque and the street musicians were in an easy listening mode – including the theme from the Godfather!?
I was highly disappointed at dinner to find they intended to seat the “for one” table (with a Reservation, made by the hotel!) right next to the noisy party of 30. With the rest of the restaurant 100pct empty. She shrugged her shoulders, and I left. This is the 2nd time I’ve gotten turned down by a restaurant on this trip. According to Google, it’s a thing, the restaurants don’t want to lose money on “one tops”. So I ended up in a tiny place (supposedly with 4.9 *) where nothing was over 10e. Which in Italy is like being at Dollar Tree. But the Nobile de Montepulciano, fennel & orange salad, and spicy salami pizza was very decent and the server was kind. It occurred to me that Italy also probably still hates all Asian people as they blame them for spreading Covid. I have seen very very few, I’ll say zero, Asian tourists in Italy so far this trip. Who knows if that was a factor or not today.
No I don’t know that guy.
To explain the money changing again. I was told there were low daily limits at the ATM so for the amount of euros cash I needed to generate, and the number of days I had, I brought USD. But literally everything is payable by tap now …even some restrooms. Which is good because people will sell their grandmother before giving you dollar coins as change. I have a pocket full of 50c and 20c now.
Tip for the day: You want AC in Italy? Throw down for the Marriott!
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